Waves give rhythm to the ocean. They transport energy over vast distances. Where they make landfall, waves help to sculpt a unique and dynamic mosaic of coastal habitats. Waves are formed as the wind passes over the surface of the open water. Energy from the wind is transferred into the topmost layers of water via friction and pressure. Reviews These forces develop a disturbance that is transported through the sea water. It should be Noted that it is the wave that moves, not the water itself (for the most part). When waves meet the shore, they are reflected the which means that the wave is pushed back or resisted by the shore (or any hard surface) such that the wave motion is sent back in the other direction. Additionally, when waves meet a shore, they are refracted. As the wave approaches the shore it experiences fiction as it moves over the sea floor. This fictional force bends (or refracts) the wave differently Depending on the characteristics of the sea floor. They imparta watery pulse upon intertidal zones and trim back the coastal sand dunes as they creep towards the sea. Where are the rocky coast, waves and tides can, over time, erode the shoreline leaving dramatic sea cliffs.
Sedang diterjemahkan, sila tunggu..
